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eeek
13th March 2010, 09:02 PM
How much do you normally pay for a 5* vetting and how much for a 2*?

What is the difference between the two?

Can you get one vet to do a 2* and then get another vet to do the other 3 stages?

Who doesn't get their horses vetted and why?

Is it worth spending 240 on a vetting for a 1500 horse? I think so, since I plan to work him hard and will keep him forever if he suits me, but I'd value your opinions.

Thanks all!

CityLights
13th March 2010, 09:09 PM
Not sure on pricing

two stage, is just eyes heart lungs and thye tend to trot it up, to check that there isnt any obviousl glaring problem with it

Five stage includes felxtion tests, lugning the horse a more through look at the systems, heart, lungs (before and after work to check recovery) eyes and bloods to check the horse isnt doped

personally for cheaper horses i dont bother as a vetting wont ensure it will stay sound, a vetting is just that horse on that day, it may the day after fall in the field and never be sound again

but for something mroe pricey you need to for insurance, and if i was doing the type of work your after i would do as well

bimba
13th March 2010, 09:29 PM
Personally I would get a 5* simply because you're going to be asking a lot of him and want to know that he's up to it.

My vet pretty much says 2* are pointless unless for a youngster and if you're going to pay then may as well get a 5*. He did also make the point that SaW made in that it's no guarantee that things wont go wrong but at least you know it's vital organs and legs are sound at the time of purchase.

MinxGTi
13th March 2010, 11:04 PM
Stage one is observation of the horse at rest in his stable. The vet notes his breathing rate, listens to his heart and if the horse points a toe at rest or crib bites, this will be in evidence.
The horse is then taken outside for a full surface examination of the skin, limbs and teeth in good light. The inspection of his teeth is simply to confirm age – a full dental examination will only be conducted at your specific request.
Any lumps and bumps denoting old injuries, or sarcoids on the body, should be apparent at this stage. The vet should view and preferably palpate every inch of skin to check for abnormalities, even under the belly. Any conformational defects should be observed at this point.


Stage two should be carried out on a hard surface and involves walking and trotting up the horse in a straight line, looking for signs of lameness and then conducting flexion tests on the joints of the lower limbs.
If all these tests are passed, the horse should be reined back and trotted on a circle each way – this will exacerbate any subtle problems.

Stage three requires strenuous exercise, preferably ridden or lunged. The vet will check for a dipped or cold back when mounting, and coordinated movement once mounted. If the horse is unbroken he should be loose-schooled. The vet will then listen for abnormal heart and wind sounds after exertion.

Stage four is a period of rest for 20- 30 minutes, to elicit any stiffness when the horse is re-examined at stage five.

Stage five involves trotting the horse up, listening to the heart and looking further at any areas of concern. A blood sample will also be taken and stored.

The vet must then give his or her best opinion "on the day" to the buyer. He is not obliged to reveal his thoughts to the vendor, although many will if there is an obvious problem.


Further tests may be required to insure expensive horses, such as ultrasound scanning of the tendons, or radiography of the distal limbs and feet. These tests are expensive and are unlikely to be recommended unless there is cause for concern.


Vettings have become an area where litigation is common and as a result most vets will conduct them extremely carefully.



The last 2 stage vetting I got done was 160 and 5 stage was 250.

It all depends on if your going to insure your new horse, as the insurance will ask for a 5 stage certifcate.
I would go for a 2 stage vetting if you not going to insure and its a cheap horse.. just to be on the safe side.

gallopinggelding
14th March 2010, 01:22 PM
Because you want to go and do streneous activities i would go for five star ,unless your prepared to buy and if hes not up to it keep/rehome him,i have bought two horses and not vetted them <including my current >i had him checked over when he had his jabs and hes been fine ,but i did have him on a small trial to buy , probably the lower stages you would pay and they could miss something , but then you hear of people having five star vettings and some things are occasionally missed , there are some very reasonably priced vets in that area though

gem
14th March 2010, 07:46 PM
I didn't get Saffy vetted because I got her from a reputable dealer who would've swapped her if she had anything majorly wrong. Also, because I'm never going to be doing loads of very hard work with her (although she would beg to differ after half an hour in the school :lol:) I figured I didn't need one. As others have said, seeing as you'll be doing a lot of demanding work with him I'd recommend getting one done.

samhall_ogden
15th March 2010, 01:14 PM
I paid 135 to get Rob 2 stage vetted this was the minimum they would accept for his insurance cover

But with Ernie being 17 yrs old and not being able to cover her for vets fees I didn't bother with the vetting I just trotted her up ect myself looked for lumps bumps and things she only cost me 600 so I felt it wasn't as necessary.